A tiny Dik-Dik on my lawn

Here at Mara Ngenche Safari Camp, in the Masai Mara in Kenya, the luxury is slightly overwhelming. When I booked on a safari with Mbiti Africa Safaris I had no idea what ‘tented accommodation’ would be like. I certainly hadn’t expected palatial tents, private lawns, plunge pools, outdoor showers, roll-top baths or substantial four-poster beds. The addition of my own personal Masai security to guard against wild animals in the unfenced camp, the fine dining outdoors, and the sound of the Hippos arguing in the Mara River below were all things I couldn’t have guessed would be here.

This is my bedroom in the tent:

Mara Ngenche Lodge tent - Kenya Safari - The Hall of Einar- photograph © David Bailey (not the)

If you’re wondering what the strange shape is on my bed, it’s a white towel sculpted into the shape of a swan. There are even fancy dressing gowns and slippers. Turning around to look the other way, I have comfortable armchairs with a view over my verandah, plunge pool, and lawn.

Mara Ngenche Lodge tent - Kenya Safari - The Hall of Einar- photograph © David Bailey (not the)

After our morning safari, I’m enjoying choosing which photographs to edit on my laptop, with my feet up on the footstool. The staff have unzipped my tent and there’s a fresh breeze coming across the river. I’m staring at my screen when a small movement on the lawn catches my eye. It’s a Dik-Dik, a tiny antelope.

Their ears are so sensitive and their eyes are so big that I know it’s going to be almost impossible to get a photograph. If I move, or even breathe too loudly, it will be gone. I move, imperceptibly slowly, twisting behind me to reach for my camera. I turn it on and focus. It’s on the lawn in beautiful light, so close to me that I can only fit its head and shoulders in the frame.

Kirk's Dik Dik - Kenya Safari - The Hall of Einar- photograph © David Bailey (not the)

Stunning.

It’s a Kirk’s Dik-Dik. It has a highly mobile proboscis with tiny slit-like nostrils. Just in front of the eyes it has pre-orbital glands which produce a sticky tar-like secretion which they use to make their territory. A pair keep and defend their territory. My tent is in their territory. It moves those large hairy ears around and I can see it has horns.

Sensibly, it moves into the shade.

Kirk's Dik Dik - Kenya Safari - The Hall of Einar- photograph © David Bailey (not the)

What an incredible encounter.

I’m so relieved that my camera was in reach.

It’s time for another safari drive and then dinner, after drinks around the fire pit. Between safari and drinks there’ll just be time for a bath. This is the bathroom in my tent:

Mara Ngenche Lodge tent - Kenya Safari - The Hall of Einar- photograph © David Bailey (not the)

When I come back, my tent will be zipped up for the night and the candles will be lit in the bathroom. I’ll be faced with the choice of which scented bubble-bath to use.

Life’s tough.

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