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Papa Westray

Dunters - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Dunters

Eider Ducks are called Dunters in Orkney. There are great floats of them off the coast. The males have done their job …

Arctic Skuas on Papay - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Air rage

Spending time in nature really helps you appreciate it. I’ve had such a great summer on the gentle hills and cliffs of …

Arctic Skua on Papay - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

A juvenile Arctic Skua flypast

I have to say it. These juvenile Arctic Skuas are… a little bit ginger. It’s fabulous to watch them sweep imperiously past. …

Arctic Tern and Arctic Skua on Papay - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Arctic Skuas v Arctic Terns

I’ve seen Arctic Skuas get into quite a few scraps this summer. There was the time one chased a Raven. Then the …

Kittiwake - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Kittiwake, Kittisleep

There’s a Kittiwake at the end of the pier where the Papa Westray ferry arrives. It’s stunning in the early morning light. …

Arctic Skua on Papay - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Juvenile Arctic Skua

Arctic Skuas come to Orkney to breed. They’re kleptoparasites, attacking birds with fish and stealing their meal. They also attack people with …

Fulmar - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Magnificent Mallimacks

There are Fulmars, called Mallimacks here in Orkney, on the wing at the pier on Papa Westray This one is flying a …

Starling - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Rainbow Stormbird

Starlings need a brand refresh. I’m surprised they haven’t engaged a top London marketing firm to challenge public perceptions of them. Their …

Arctic Skua - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Sitting pretty

A little further along the coast of Papa Westray I see an Arctic Skua sitting on a wall. It’s really not what …

Great Skua - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Stumbling across a Great Skua

Great Skuas are one of my favourite birds. They are a constant delight as they patrol the shoreline, flying low and surprising …

Eider - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Dunters on the waves

There are Common Eider ducks on the growing waves here on Papa Westray. Their colours are very understated. As soon as they …

Black Guillemots - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

A bit of singing and dancing

Black Guillemots are the connoisseur’s auk. If you find Puffins too gaudy, or Guillemots too dowdy, then Black Guillemots are for you. …

Arctic Terns - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

The gift of two summers

There are Arctic Terns fishing in uneven seas off Papa Westray. Their concentration skills are immense: Arctic Terns spend the northern summer …

Oystercatcher - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Blood-footed Oyster-pickers

There are Oystercatchers on Papa Westray and they intend to let us know that. As soon as we arrive, and walk into …

Great Auk - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

720 Auks make a mattress

Papa Westray is one of the few places in which the amazing, and sadly extinct, Great Auk bred. People often think that …

Holland Farm on Papa Westray - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Holland Farm from the air

Every time I visit Papa Westray I say “Next time I visit Papay I must have a look at all those beautiful …

Wild Rose

I sent my love two roses…

I’ve always loved wild roses. The cultivated varieties rarely do anything for me, especially in garage forecourts, but wild roses are something …

Hay Turner

Hay Turner

It’s a long way from Papa Westray to a large landfill site or recycling centre so if it’s large, heavy or rusting …

Weighed Down

Sharing a bench

On Papa Westray the wind knows how to blow. That means that anything that’s not tied down or cemented-in will eventually take …

Knap of Howar

A 5,600 year old picnic venue

The island of Papa Westray is just off Westray, part of the Orkney Islands just off the north-east coast of Scotland, part …

Holland Farm Papa Westray

Holland

Today there’s time to visit Holland. No, not the province of the Netherlands, but Holland the farm on Papa Westray. It’s a …