A waterfall of Hedgehogs and Rubber Brush risotto

Hedgehog fungi are one of the easiest to identify. If it has a central stem, a pale off-white cap and the underneath is covered in bristly teeth, then you may have found a Hedgehog Fungus, Hydnum repandum. In France it has the charming name Pied de Mouton, Sheep’s Foot.

There’s a waterfall of them along this woodland bank.

Hedgehog Fungus - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

They must be part of a faerie ring.

Hedgehog Fungus - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

I first read about them in Jane Grigson’s The Mushroom Feast which I bought as a child. I spent many long hot baths on a Sunday night fantasising about French provincial food. As you do. Or maybe it was just me?

Jane Grigson's Mushroom Feast - The Hall of Einar

It was there I read their other names and the best way of cooking them:

Jane Grigson's Mushroom Feast - The Hall of Einar

They are delicious, and, as the ever-reliable Jane Grigson said, good for a fricassee.

Hedgehog Fungus - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

Here are the ‘teeth’ on the underside.

Hedgehog Fungus - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

I can see why they would be called Rubber Brush fungus.

Hedgehog Fungus - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

There are also Terracotta Hedgehogs, Hydnum rufescens, here.

Hydnum rufescens - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

They are thinner-fleshed and smaller.

Hydnum rufescens - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

They have the same ‘teeth’ underneath.

Hydnum rufescens - The Hall of Einar - photograph (c) David Bailey (not the)

I harvest a few Hedgehogs with some Ceps and Chanterelles and take them home. Tonight it’s Rubber Brush risotto.

It tastes far, far better than it sounds.

Never rely on the Internet for information on the edibility of fungi – not even this blog. You may be in a different country, have different species and have partial information.
Join a group, meet with experts, get a decent guide book.
Even saying try a small amount first is a dangerous thing to do – a single cubic centimetre of a poisonous fungus could be enough to give you multiple organ failure.

Here’s my review of the Collins Complete Guide to British Mushrooms & Toadstools, an excellent, small, reasonably comprehensive photographic guide:

And if you’re really, really interested in the thousands of species, here’s Fungi of Temperate Europe – Volumes 1 & 2. It’s an era-defining classic:

Buon appetito.

It’s time for a hot bath and a Jane Grigson food fantasy.

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