Scapa flow is at the very heart of Orkney. It is a beautiful shallow harbour of 125 square miles surrounded by islands. It has been vital to the safety of ships since before history began with written records. It has also been the site of a fleet being scuttled, a U-boat torpedo attack and the anchorage of a Viking fleet.
Looking down at the shallow water I’m acutely aware how beautiful the water is and how treacherous it has been. Wrecks and war graves lie just below the glittering surface. Smooth waters; a rough history.