Westray cattle are a breed apart. I’m used to seeing docile unthinking beasts in Devon. Barely alive, seemingly semi-conscious, the Devon grass grazers are unaware of anything save a single ancestral flick of the eyes to register whether danger approaches. Westray beef steers, however, have a different life. Curious beyond normal measure, they race to [...]
There are no pubs in Kirkwall, only hotels with restaurants and bars. It is the morning, and I’m getting ready for my first day’s work in Orkney, the first of four days. I pop my head into the bar of my hotel and ask the young barman whether they have any real ales. He says [...]
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