St Peter’s Kirk in Sandwick on Orkney looks so beautiful in the low sunshine, standing quietly alone in its graveyard. It’s now owned by the Scottish Redundant Churches Trust. In the 19th Century 544 people would pack into the tiny austere space. That’s half of the population then. With a mere 18 inches of pew each, people were thinner in those days; and they knew what to do with their elbows.